This morning, a lawyer buddy gave me a huge Bluefish that he caught yesterday on Long Island. He said he was out at dawn on the end of a jetty, alone, when the water all around him began to percolate wildly — he reeled in 12 of these beasts, one after the other. A day later I was filleting one of them and grilling him/her over charcoal. I always think of fish as male. I wonder if I’m alone in that.